My last post was at Abel Tasman National Park, and we have traveled the length of the west coast since that time. Our first stop after Marahau was a small beach camp in Punakaiki, about 1km from Pancake Rocks, a series of sea stacks that are stacked one on top of the other, pretty interesting formation. The camp at Punakaiki was situated below a large cliff and right on an impressive beach full of rocks and a few greenstones. We enjoyed the hike along the beach with the Tasman Sea pounding the rocky coastline. In camp, well, that was another story. That night we experienced the "attack of the killer sand flies". You don't know they have bit you until it is too late and then the after effect happens about 24 hours later with huge red welts and a lovely burning, itchy sensation. Needless to say, it was a beautiful location but one we did not tarry at the next morning.
Pancake Rocks is now part of a national park with the associated fencing and warning signs. Twenty years ago, visitors could explore the areas more closely, I guess that tourists falling into blowholes and washed out to sea put a damper on the whole explore on your own mentality. It is still an impressive location.
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| Pancake Rocks looking south. |
Our next stop was much further down the coast at Franz Joseph Glacier, but only after having a roadside picnic and sharing some chocolate with a French couple who were cycle touring for 6 months in New Zealand. They were having a little bit of trouble with their rear derailler that day, so the chocolate we gave them was a nice cheer up. Then we were on the road again.
Franz Joseph Glacier is still rather touristy compared to its southern neighbor, Fox Glacier. We drove out to the car park (what they call parking lots in NZ) for the hike to the view for the glacier. The hike carried us through large fern looking trees to walking on a rocky riverbed (the Wahio River) to within 300m of the terminal face. More info about Franz Joseph Glacier
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| Franz Joseph Glacier |
The road between Franz Joseph and Fox Glacier was another curvy, Monte Carlo-like driving experience where we were flagged down by 3 gals with a flat tire. They were 2 girls from Christchurch, NZ and one from Ireland, who were traveling back from trekking the Routeburn Track. Luckily Mark was able to get them back on the road fairly quickly, they commented that he was as fast as a "Daytona pit crew", that made us laugh, especially if anyone knows Mark! Speaking of driving in NZ; imagine taking the Blue Ridge Parkway and 441 through the Great Smoky Mountains National Park, with various changes in scenery, elevation, and climate, then plop it down in New Zealand. That is what the roads are like, oh, and don't forget the one lane bridges, random sheep on the road, round-a-bouts, and very few stoplights. And you drive on the left side. Currently Mark is our main driver, I haven't gotten up the nerve to try it yet.
By the time we got to Fox Glacier, the clouds had descended upon the mountains and the rain had started. We still got out of the van and hiked to the viewpoint anyway. While we were there, the weather lifted (just like NC, wait 5 minutes and the weather changes). I eavesdropped on a guided glacier hike (research of course) and found out that the area we viewed 20 years ago, had receded up the mountain by an astonishing rate. Some of this melting is due to climate change and the other to the fact the glacier sits on a fault line, which can cause some of the movement. More info on Fox Glacier On the return hike, I was able to chat with a lovely couple from Australia who were touring NZ for 10 days, they said we had to visit their country next, the kangaroo viewing was free.
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| Fox Glacier |
After a night in Fox Glacier, we spent an incredibly long day in the van traveling down the coast, up the Gates of Hasst, to Wanaka, past Queenstown, past Cromwell, turned west and ended into Te Anau last night. The campa van tripped 2000k as we traveled by endless fields of sheep yesterday. We all agreed that it was time to have a layover day again. This afternoon we will pack for the Milford Track; four days of tramping over 52k, staying in huts at night and ending with an overnight on a large sailboat in Milford Sound. There will be no internet connection until return to Te Anau on March 13 (in case you need to contact us).
I am sure the girls will post something this evening before we lose our connection. Cheers!
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